Puppy Training With John Wade

A Safer, More User-Friendly & Better Approach To Puppy Training

If you’ve had any exposure to what normally constitutes companion dog training, you will find that this is a very different approach than you may be used to, or expect.

This path is far easier to learn, far easier to implement, not dependent on treats or force, less stressful for both the dog and the owner, is based on legitimate behavioral science and learning theory and not surprisingly produces far better results.

The approach can be called, ‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’. Most approaches to companion dog training variations on ‘Might Is Right’ and more commonly, ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free…’ These two approaches are fraught with problems aren’t aren’t particularly effective for companion dog training. They evolved not because of how dogs (or any higher order social species, including humans) teaches or learns but because companion dog training is an unregulated industry where claims alleging ‘this is science’ by people without sufficient background in legitimate science or alternatively experience applying critical thought to what they have been told and then tell companion dog owners, is science, is the norm and not the exception.

‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’, is based on science. Real look it up and point to it science. For a more detailed review of ‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’ and what is typically offered see:

If you’ve had any exposure to what usually constitutes companion dog training, you will find that this is a very different approach than you may be used to, or expect.

This path is far easier to learn, far easier to implement, not dependent on treats or force, less stressful for both the dog and the owner, is based on legitimate behavioral science and learning theory and not surprisingly produces far better results.

The approach can be called, ‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training.’ Most approaches to companion dog training variations on ‘Might Is Right’ and more commonly, ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free…’ These two approaches are fraught with problems aren’t aren’t particularly effective for companion dog training. They evolved not because of how dogs (or any higher order social species, including humans) teaches or learns but because companion dog training is an unregulated industry where claims alleging ‘this is science’ by people without sufficient background in legitimate science or alternatively experience applying critical thought to what they have been told and then tell companion dog owners, is science, is the norm and not the exception.

‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training,’ is based on science. Real look it up and point to it science. For a more detailed review of ‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’ and what is typically offered see:

1. What-Is-Fully-Balanced-Dog-Training-(Short-Version)
2. What Is Fully Balanced Dog Training (Longer Version)
3. What Is ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free…’ Dog Training
4. What Is ‘Might Is Right’ Dog Training
5. Alternatively, read my book What Are The Different (and best) Puppy and Dog Training Methods by John Wade (ebook)

‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’ differs not only in the method you use to teach but in other very significant ways. Teaching a dog to do a trick, work with a hunter or a police officer, perform in the agility ring etc is significantly different than teaching a dog companion skills. Skills that need to be applicable and reliable in the real world settings of inside and outside your home.

Almost all companion dog training curriculums reflect to a significant degree what would be required obedience-wise if you were planning on competing in a sanctioned obedience competition. Participants typically learn these ‘routines’ by having a single member of the household attending classes once a week for approximately an hour in a strange environment surrounded by unfamiliar dogs and people for anywhere from 6 – 12 weeks. Completion of one level is often followed by a need for signing up for multiple additional levels.

The approach is one where the dog’s owner focuses on the dog with the intensity of someone trying to bend a spoon with the power of their mind. Whereas, the dog’s focus if as intense is focused not on their owner but on treats the owner holds.

None of the above sufficiently mirrors the reality of the other 167 hours of the week back home and as a result, rarely translates into usefulness. An argument could potentially be made that were a dog owner sufficiently committed some progress would be made, albeit more useful in an obedience ring rather than in the home and the neighborhood. A stronger argument could be made on the basis simply observing how many dogs that graduate’ from these classes, and still have no clue how to behave in their homes and neighborhoods without the promise of treats or various no-pull devices.

‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’ differs not only in the method you use to teach but in other very significant ways. Training a dog to do a trick, work with a hunter or a police officer, perform in the agility ring, etc is significantly different than teaching a dog companion skills. Skills that need to be applicable and reliable in the real world settings of inside and outside your home.

Almost all companion dog training curriculums reflect to a significant degree what would be required obedience-wise if you were planning on competing in a sanctioned obedience competition. Participants typically learn these ‘routines’ by having a single member of the household attending classes once a week for approximately an hour in a strange environment surrounded by unfamiliar dogs and people for anywhere from 6 – 12 weeks. Completion of one level is often followed by a need for signing up for multiple additional levels.

The approach is one where the dog’s owner focuses on the dog with the intensity of someone trying to bend a spoon with the power of their mind. Whereas, the dog’s focus if as intense is focused not on their owner but on treats the owner holds.

None of the above sufficiently mirrors the reality of the other 167 hours of the week back home and as a result, rarely translates into usefulness. An argument could potentially be made that were a dog owner sufficiently committed some progress would be made, albeit more useful in an obedience ring rather than in the home and the neighborhood. A stronger argument could be made on the basis merely observing how many dogs that graduate’ from these classes, and still have no clue how to behave in their homes and neighborhoods without the promise of treats or various no-pull devices.

‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’ is structured entirely differently. The first major difference is that instead of forcing your dog and you to compete with several other dogs in a foreign environment the training occurs in your own home and involves everyone you wish to be involved. (See In-Home Vs Strange Environments for more information about all the advantages.)

The second significant difference is in the program structure. Instead of providing dribs and drabs stretched over weeks we will be using a two-part approach that is more effective and adaptable to the lifestyle and schedules of the average companion dog owner.

Part One Of Your Puppy Training Program

The first step is when we meet in your home. The session lasts for approximately 2 – 3 hours during which:

• I will assess your puppy in the best environment to do so, (your own home). This will help immensely in determining the best way to structure your custom program.
• You will learn how a puppy sees the world and makes decisions as to who is the teacher and who is the student and using that to a mighty advantage. (Hint, not force or treats.)
• You will also learn that a puppy, like a child, is learning whether you are actively teaching or not and comparatively speaking that’s a lot of learning time that if left to chance makes life skill learning open to undermining and success in training less likely. As a result, you will be learning everything that influences your puppy’s perceptions and how to address these potential influences proactively so that your training efforts are not undermined.
• Yes, it’s a long session, but don’t worry, we intersperse hands-on training with learning how dogs see the world with demonstrating practical ways to reinforce relationship and learning of life-skills, having Q&A’s etc. This allows your puppy to take appropriate breaks.
• You will learn, first as I demonstrate, and then hands-on as I coach you, how to teach the three most useful skills using practical applications, in areas such as the doorway, the kitchen, the stairs etc. The three most useful life skills are:
  • Stay
  • Come
  • Loose leash stationary (while you sit/stand) transitioning to while walking in a controlled setting (house/yard) initially.
  • You will also learn the steps on how to introduce walking on a loose leash in a manner that will result in a loose leash without dependency on pinching harnesses, collars or treats.
• You will learn how to plant seeds for later harvesting regarding other skills that may be desirable once the foundation skills are learned. Often these skills are given too much weight too soon making it harder on both the puppy and the owner. If obedience competitions are in your future the time investment a little later in the training will be appropriate but for the short term teaching a puppy to stay on a mat as opposed to, sit, then down, then stay on the mat is an unnecessary complication. This allows the puppy option to sit, down or stand on the mat. Far less room to fail and far greater room to succeed and learn what is expected. These addon exercises are typically things such as:
  • Down
  • Sit
  • Stand
• You will learn when and how to introduce distractions typical to life in and around a home.
  • Doorbells and door knocking
  • Kitchen etiquette
  • Yard etiquette
  • Guests arriving and departing
  • Squirrels, other dogs, etc.
  • And much more.

Part Two Of Your Puppy Training Program (Included)

Because part of what constitutes ‘Fully Balanced Companion Dog Training’ is ‘teach a person to fish’, rather than ‘give a person a fish’ and because of the way we can use video after we meet, plus what is, in essence, a ‘Trainer On Retainer’ approach to followup, it’s extremely rare that we will need to meet face to face after our session.

However, what happens after our appointment ‘Trainer On Retainer’, is as important and a very large part of the program and the service I provide to ensure you achieve your goals . . .

• The morning following our session you will receive a highly detailed written review of what we covered including a custom training program tailored specifically for your puppy.
• During the days that follow additional content containing tips and reminders appropriate to your program will follow. Typically spaced as follows:
  • 3 days later
  • 10 days later
  • 21 days later
  • 30 days later
  • 90 days later
• When there are bumps in the road (and there will be) we will use video examples provided by yourself for my review and input. This works wonderfully and saves both you and your puppy tons of time and frustration.
• Additionally, you will be encouraged to use texting, phone, email and/or Skype/Facetime to reach out the moment you have any questions. My response time is excellent. You will not be left hanging.

All told, you will have a far more personalized and effective program combined with unparalled, timely, on-going access to one of North America’s most extremely experienced and knowledgable dog trainers (me). Compare this to the program and access provided elsewhere.

Training In-Home Vs In Strange Environments

The ideal place to train any dog but a puppy, in particular, is in the pup’s own home. There are a few reasons for this.

• You Can Safely Start Sooner
• You Can Involve Everyone
• You Don’t Need Extremes To Motivate Your Puppy Or Dog (Treats and/or Force)
• You And Your Puppy Will Learn More and Faster In Your Own Relaxed Environment
• Your Home Is Your Real Classroom The Majority Of The Time Anyway
• The Distractions Are Consistent With Your Day To Day Reality (as opposed to 6 other dogs)
• The Focus is 100% On You, Your Dog, Your Goals (as opposed to 6 other puppies and dog owners with often unrelated issues.)
• You Control The Perspective Your Dog Develops Regarding Expectations Of Behavior When Meeting Unfamiliar Dogs In The Future ( See What Socialization (Dog To Dog) Is And Isn’t)

Maximize Household (All adults and Children) Involvement

Adults

I highly recommend involving everyone that normally interacts with your puppy on a day to day basis, attend. Even if they aren’t expected to fully participate, you will find that if they are present they are far less likely to unintentionally undermine the accomplishment of your goals and far more likely to take an active role.

Children

Depending on how we go about it, involving children in the training of your puppy has the potential to have a positive or a negative impact on both the child and the puppy’s development.

I definitely encourage children’s involvement but recommend using the following rule of thumb as a means for determining the level of that involvement.

If you feel that a child (or the children) in question would be unable to responsibly care for a two-year-old without supervision than it would be better to embrace the approach of involving them, mentioned below. 

The problem isn’t so much with understanding what’s required, as I’ve found that the children that attend my sessions typically absorb far more of what is said, than we ever could, even when they’re not in the same room than their parent does. Later, they can be quite an asset to the adults as the child or children become walking, talking session referral notebooks. 

The problem, and it’s not really a ‘problem’ so much as it is a reality is with attention span. Having witnessed it personally with my own sons and the children of past clients, I’m a big believer in the positive impact a good dog can have on a child’s life experience and have found it’s best not to set either the child (or their dog) up to fail by burdening them with a level of responsibility that isn’t realistic and instead emphasize the other aspects of canine companionship.

However, the children will be involved, I just recommend we involve them in a slightly more creative way.

• At the 30 day mark, the dog has a clearer idea of what’s expected life skill wise inside the home. (dinner/doorways/stairs etc.) The child will attach their own personal leash, alongside mom or dads and instruct the dog as they have seen mom and dad do for the past 30 days. With you as the backup, you will be able to gently transfer the authority you have collected in combination with a clearer understanding in your dog as to what’s expected, over to the child without burdening the child or confusing the dog with the actual training of the dog. Works great.
• For the first 30 days of training, if age appropriate, and the child wishes, I recommend allowing the child or children to monitor the progress goals we will be laying out.

Create Your Own Wishlist

When you book your appointment you will receive a link to download a ‘Wishlist’ Template. Pop it on the fridge or someplace handy and as they come to mind write down things such as:

• I wish my puppy would learn to…
• I wish my puppy would learn to stop doing this …
• Good Lord, I hope my puppy never even thinks of doing this …

When we get together we’ll review your wishlist and make sure all of your goals are addressed.

Crate Training

Many dog trainers and companion dog owners approach the use of a crate as a means to an end for accomplishing house training and to keep a dog out of mischief at night or when owners aren’t home. It is certainly a useful tool in that regard however, a crate can be much more.

More importantly, if introduced and used incorrectly (as just described) many puppies develop separation anxiety that time in the crate triggers and magnifies and instead of a crate tapping into a dog’s denning instinct and being perceived as a sanctuary it becomes ‘the enemy.’

You will learn to introduce and use a crate correctly so it can bring your puppy a sense of comfort which can come in handy later in life, during times of upheaval, moving, staying in hotel rooms, air travel, overnight veterinary stays, trips to the groomer, when crate rest is required to recover from injury etc.

House Training

Many in the amateur dog training world have encouraged companion dog owners to teach their puppies to ring a bell as a means to alert their owners they need to empty out their bowel and/or bladder.

Not only does this more often than not create a bell ringing nightmare (as dogs aren’t lacking in intelligence) it is a far less efficient way to go about house training than you will learn. Instead, you will be shown how to teach your puppy to expect 3 trips out for this purpose per day, to one spot (so there aren’t landmines all over your yard) by the time your puppy achieves 14 weeks of age. This is in keeping with reasonable bowel and bladder control.

Socialization And Temperament Stability (Formation and Troubleshooting)

Why Is A Puppy’s Critical Socialization Period So Important?

Scott and Fuller’s work more than 50 years ago taught us much about the impact imprinting during a set period of time can have on a dog’s temperament and quality of life later in life. When you’ve met, go any where, do anything, go with the flow type dogs, genetics (nature) has played a role. However, an additional and hugely influencing factor are the context (positive/neutral/negative) of events experienced or left out between 3 – 12 weeks of age. By events, I’m referring to the sounds, sights, smells, textures etc that a puppy in this age range encounters, or doesn’t encounter.

Veterinarians, breeders and dog trainers, as a rule, are either unaware of this period or fail to provide sufficient emphasis and investment, leaving too much to chance. I have been training dogs full time for close to 30 years and have worked with thousands of dogs with behavior problems varying from the significant to the severe and the vast majority could have been avoided had the breeder make more of an effort to both begin the imprinting and guide those taking their puppies into their homes and lives.

If we develop a plan to provide positive associations with infants, crawling children, toddlers, pre-teens, the elderly etc., loud overhead sound (thunder, fireworks etc.), learning to spend time alone, we exponentially increase the chances that the temperament your puppy forms will be inoculated against not only future problems in these areas but for unanticipated issues as if the experiences we include are wide, varied and frequent it appears that we also create an experiential malleability in the dog’s temperament as well. Meaning, the dog develops a go anywhere, do anything, go with the flow overall personalities.

It won’t override genetics. In other words, guarding genetics are still guarding genetics. What it does do is make sure that the guarding genetics are triggered by fear or anxiety.

If you are interested in learning more about puppy socialization, nitty-gritty you can read the book I wrote on the topic – Socialize Your Puppy For Everything (eBook) by John Wade

If in your travels to find training for your puppy you have encountered offerings referring to ‘puppy socialization classes’ you will no doubt find the following interesting reading and your confidence that you have found the correct training for your puppy will no doubt increase.

What Socialization Is And Isn’t

True socialization – the sort that produces temperaments exhibiting wide-ranging confidence in an adult dog has two elements. The first is timing. A dog’s critical socialization period occurs from 3 – 12 weeks of age (+/- 1 week) and most classes for reasons associated with inoculations, occur well after that.

• Up To 12 Weeks Of Age
• Between 12 Weeks And 9 Months

Secondly, amongst many other things, a puppy’s critical socialization imprint period is by design intended to strengthen a puppy’s dog to dog socialization skills via interaction with ongoing daily contact with familiar dogs. The last thing a puppy needs to be socialized with is strange puppies or dogs, for one hour, once a week.

Puppies that go to these weekly classes come out with one of three perspectives:

1. Experiences that have no notable impact on dog-to-dog socialization as that period is well past.
2. Experiences that may lead them to believe that unfamiliar dogs they meet in the future may bully them.
3. Experiences that contribute to the notion that they can get away with bullying dogs that they only meet occasionally or are completely unfamiliat.

These classes are not worth the risk. They are also an indication that the person promoting them has an inadequate grasp of at least one aspect and quite possibly other aspects of canine development, learning theory etc., and a huge one at that. These classes are almost always promoted by dog trainers that buy a dog’s attention with treats.

While treat-based training can influence behavior (think Shamu in the aquarium) the approach was never intended as the foundation for teaching or learning life-skills for real-world (non-aquarium) life scenarios. In other words, your home and neighborhood. Fine for tricks, but I’m guessing you want more from your dog.

Scott and Fuller’s research showed that dog-to-dog socialization imprinting occurs between 3 – 6 weeks of age in the litter, through interactions with their mother, and to a far lesser extent in some cases, regular pack members and littermates and NEVER unfamiliar representatives from their species but outside their day to day opportunities to interact.

Were the opportunity available, exposing your puppy to stable, familiar puppies and adult dogs, day after day would be a very different story. Even after, the 3-6 week range passes, this sort of exposure contributes to the maintenance of dog to dog social skills.

The path we chose depends on the current age of your puppy:

• Puppies Under 12 Weeks of Age
• Puppies Between 12 Weeks of Age and 9 Months

Puppies Under 12 Weeks of Age

Temperament development is so essential and the imprint period so short that I will not be waiting until we meet to get things moving in the right direction. This also applies for imprinting and somewhat ‘better not to wait’ reasons. two other areas, where timing is very important. Shortly after you schedule your appointment, I will send you in advance of our appointment:

• Puppy Socialization Cheat Sheet (based on my book, Socialize Your Puppy for Everything – John Wade (eBook)
• House Training Cheat Sheet (3X/day in one spot by 16 weeks) (Also based on one of my books – How To Housetrain A Puppy – John Wade (eBook)
• Crate Training For Sanctuary Association And To Combat Separation Anxiety – Cheat Sheet

You can use the provided cheat sheets as a templates to immediately begin the positive imprinting, house, and crate training of your puppy, taking note of any areas where your puppy may need some attention. If you have concerns or questions you do not have to, nor should you wait to contact me. This is such an important contributor to your dog’s future life I will provide you with my full attention to equipping your puppy with a fantastic temperament, house training and a sanctuary association with his or her crate.

Puppies Between 12 Weeks And 9 Months Of Age

If your puppy is now past 12 weeks of age and certain aspects of social imprinting were left out you may or may not notice any potential problems. Part of the service I provide and recommend is to proceed as if your dog were in its imprinting period. While we may not influence temperament from the perspective positive or neutral imprinting we can in most instances get ahead of a path that more often than not leads to over-reactivity that ultimately impacts quality of life.

We’ll check for common areas where your puppy might have future social difficulties and by being proactive keep things from getting out of hand so that your puppy can still grow up to be reasonably confident in your home and be able to go out and about with you as frequently as possible when exposed to various social triggers.

Mouthing, Nipping, Biting And Jumping

The most common (and harmful) recommendations regarding addressing this very important developmental period/behavior in a puppy include, redirecting/rewarding good/ignoring bad/walking away/feigning pain/timeouts etc. set people and their dogs up future problems, some of which can be quite serious.

Almost every dog trainer and veterinarian erroneously recommend this damaging strategy. Most claim it works because after 30 days they say, “See it worked”. However, this is a classic example of the ‘false cause’ logical fallacy based on an insufficient understanding of canine behavior from the perspective of evolutionary biology/psychology.

The reality is that mouthing and nipping starts at a certain age with all puppies, for a reason and once the answers to the questions this behavior is intended to resolve have been ascertained, which (surprise) is usually about 30 days, and the behavior begins to dissipate with or without the aforementioned strategy. In other words, it’s not the ’training’ recommendation at all.

It is worth emphasizing that while the behavior will (at least the worst of it) ‘go away’ within 30 days, it is very important to your relationship with your puppy that you do not do not wait it out. Whether implementing the aforementioned ‘strategy’ or waiting it out rather than appropriately addressing it, will always make future training far more difficult on both the dog owner and their dog. I will be guiding you through the process on how to address, mouthing, nipping, biting and jumping.

I wrote this article to explain the behavior from the perspective of the evolutionary biological purpose from which it stems.

Puppy Mouthing, Nipping and Biting – Do Not Redirect – Redirecting Has Far-Reaching Negative Consequences And It Almost Always Sets You Up To Fail With Your Puppy – by John Wade

Practical Real Life Obedience Training For In-Home And Outings

What Is Often Considered Obedience?

Almost all companion dog training offered still embraces a curriculum that might make sense if the goal is to compete in an obedience competition around other dogs in a gymnasium setting. However, most dog owners are companion dog owners and geometric patterns around pylons, staying and coming for a treat while being stared at has very little to do with a companion dog ownership lifestyle.

Companion Dog Obedience Is Far More Useful

For companion dog owners the early stages initial obedience (but not sole) focus should begin primarily on a dog learning:

• Keep the leash loose – No Matter What
• Stay – No Matter What
• Come – No Matter What

Learning these alone and learning them well will allow any dog to go anywhere with you. These skills should be taught:

• Initially without unreasonable distractions for the dog or owner (6 other dogs in a gymnasium) Ideally, in the home (the classroom) much better.)
• Distractions to be expected both in and outside the home should be introduced incrementally.
• Without reliance on treats or ‘Might Is Right’ but through the dog’s desire to please.

Traditional offerings are divided up into two diametrically opposed and equally flawed approaches:

• ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free…’ treat, treat, treat (80% of the classes)
• ‘Might Is Right’ (20% of the classes)

Even after millions of years of evolution no dog, wolf, ape or human being (any species) shapes the behavior of their youngsters, particularly when it comes to the learning of the skills required to maximize future success and freedom with either of these ideologies as a foundation.

‘All Positive’ Training

Referred to in various ways, ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free’ and by some, as, ignore bad behavior, reward (treats) good behavior, etc.

As mentioned above, this concept was shaped in controlled environments and works but only to a certain extent in controlled environments very different from companion dog ownership environments.

In the context of the Orca’s aquarium, the rat’s maze, the dog agility or obedience competition ring, this may be a legitimate methodology, but in the context of companion dog training for teaching real-life skills for real-world setting, it becomes at best a less than useful ideology.

An ideology that will always fail in the context of real-world settings. Ironically, the companion dog trainers offering ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free’ claim it is based on science without mentioning the contextual nature of that science. It allows trainers with a relatively low skill set to provide the illusion of training but ultimately the real world gets in the way and the training falls apart.

‘Might Is Right’ Training

This is not to say that the `Might Is Right` approach sometimes referred to as ‘Yank and Crank’, being Alpha, Pack Leader, Dominant, using Alpha rolls, etc. is any more valid. It just produces a different set of problems, such a submissive dog or an aggressive dog.

Fully Balanced Training

What Is Fully Balanced Dog Training (Short Version)

1. Is the only companion dog life skill training for real-world contexts approach that has extensive supporting science. There is literally no science to similarly support ‘Might Is Right’ or ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free…’ treat ideologies.
2. It is almost always All Positive. Almost. It does not shy away from the reality that parents of all species occasionally draw upon the concept of “I’m not asking you, I’m telling you.”
3. Because it is essentially part of nature’s template, both companion dog owners and their dogs relate and subsequently learn and adapt to it far more quickly than ‘Might Is Right’ or ‘All Positive/Purely Positive/Force-Free…’ ideologies. Both dogs and dog owners love it.
4. The results are amazing. Dogs learn to exert self-control without being subjected to the submission techniques of ‘Might Is Right’, or the addictive focus, (until something more interesting appears) on treats as opposed to the strength of their love and relationship they have with their owner.

You will find it’s straightforward to implement for two reasons:

1. Because you’re already hard wired to use it.
2. I am a really, really good teacher. 🙂 Read my Google Reviews and Facebook Reviews

What Is Fully Balanced Dog Training (Longer Version)

Here’s a link to a paraphrased chapter about Fully Balanced Dog Training from of a book I wrote about dog training – insert link here.

Create Your Own Wishlist

When you book your appointment you will receive a link to download a ‘Wishlist’ Template. Pop it on the fridge or someplace handy and as they come to mind write down things such as:

• I wish my puppy would learn to…
• I wish my puppy would learn to stop doing this …
• Good Lord, I hope my puppy never even thinks of doing this …

When we get together we’ll review your wishlist and make sure all of your goals are addressed.

Video

Both before and after we get together you will be encouraged to video various aspects of your puppy’s behavior. When you book, your confirmation email will include the most efficient way of getting those videos to me.

Videoed examples of behavior have proven over and over again to be incredibly useful in providing a means to better help my clients find much faster resolutions to problem areas. Beforehand send example videos of any training scenarios you want to be addressed that you think might not pop up when we’re together, or after we’ve met, that you’re finding more difficult than expected. You will find the path forward will be smoother and less frustrating.